I really like this, Jon. You really got the F4U-7 right. I say that as one who was part of the team that restored BuNo 133722, the last F4U-7 built still in existence (till it was killed by the poor care of the @#$#@!! who run the Tillamook Air “Museum”), which we restored in the Suez markings we found three layers down in the paint. This GSB is right, too.
Thanks! You’re comments mean a lot given your involvement in the restoration. I’m pretty sure I’ve seen quite a few photos around on the net of that airframe.
I note with interest your enthusiasm for the Iwata RG-3 airbrush. As I am considering purchasing one myself, I was hoping you would comment on it more. Is it easy to clean? What thinning ratios and pressures are you using? Any quirks I should know about? Thanks for your time.
I do like the RG-3, but it is a lot of money for a niche instrument. The main advantages for me are: 1) much quicker to spray an overall coat of something; 2) much quicker to clean; 3) smoother finish.
It is easy to clean: I simply run gunwash through it and clean out the cup attachment with a cotton bud. There is no need to take the nozzle off. Occasionally I pull the needle out to clean it.
I use the same thinning ratios as for my other airbrushes. I up the pressure to anywhere between 20-30PSI.
The only quirk I’d mention is only spray paint through it. Do not spray Klear/Future/Pledge. I tried this once: disaster (for the model, not the airbrush).
But the real source of useful information is Paul Budzik’s videos on Youtube.
I’m afraid I can’t recall off the top of my head. I did purchase the round air cap (in the UK it only comes with the fan cap as standard, which I managed to sell on Ebay). I think I have a 0.5 or 0.6mm needle. Definitely not 1mm.
I really like this, Jon. You really got the F4U-7 right. I say that as one who was part of the team that restored BuNo 133722, the last F4U-7 built still in existence (till it was killed by the poor care of the @#$#@!! who run the Tillamook Air “Museum”), which we restored in the Suez markings we found three layers down in the paint. This GSB is right, too.
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Thanks! You’re comments mean a lot given your involvement in the restoration. I’m pretty sure I’ve seen quite a few photos around on the net of that airframe.
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Jon,
I note with interest your enthusiasm for the Iwata RG-3 airbrush. As I am considering purchasing one myself, I was hoping you would comment on it more. Is it easy to clean? What thinning ratios and pressures are you using? Any quirks I should know about? Thanks for your time.
Bob.
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Bob,
I do like the RG-3, but it is a lot of money for a niche instrument. The main advantages for me are: 1) much quicker to spray an overall coat of something; 2) much quicker to clean; 3) smoother finish.
It is easy to clean: I simply run gunwash through it and clean out the cup attachment with a cotton bud. There is no need to take the nozzle off. Occasionally I pull the needle out to clean it.
I use the same thinning ratios as for my other airbrushes. I up the pressure to anywhere between 20-30PSI.
The only quirk I’d mention is only spray paint through it. Do not spray Klear/Future/Pledge. I tried this once: disaster (for the model, not the airbrush).
But the real source of useful information is Paul Budzik’s videos on Youtube.
Jon
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Jon,
Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I do have one more: what size nozzle does your RG-3 have? Thank you.
Bob.
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I’m afraid I can’t recall off the top of my head. I did purchase the round air cap (in the UK it only comes with the fan cap as standard, which I managed to sell on Ebay). I think I have a 0.5 or 0.6mm needle. Definitely not 1mm.
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